Acura 10002-PL2-660 Engine Assembly, Block (C27A1-015)

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The block should be cleaned first, before inspection. Check visually for cracks, rust and corrosion and strips threads in threaded holes. You should have the block looked for hidden cracks by an automotive machine shop qualified for that work. Block if possible and if defects are found, then repair or replace. Have the cylinder bores measure for scuffing and scoring, i.e., check the diameter at the top, center and bottom and parallel to the crankshaft axis. As time goes on, you will learn how to accurately measure so work slowly and repeat checks until the accuracy is satisfactory with you. In case, the measuring precision tools are unavailable, feeler gauge stock is available at auto stores, it can be used to get piston to cylinder clearances. Check clearance with a feeler gauge between the piston and cylinder on the thrust face and insert a feeler gauge to the matching piston position, checking it is between the piston and cylinder, not piston stuck down inside the cylinder. If the piston falls through the cylinder with little pressure there is excessive clearance and a new piston is required. The cylinder is tapered, if the piston binds at the lower end with loose spot, if any tight spot encountered while rotating the piston/feeler gauge." Repeat for the other pistons and cylinders. Oversize pistons and rings are needed if the cylinder walls are badly scuffed, scored, out of round or tapered so far that the engine block must be rebored and honed by an automotive machine shop. On the block deck check for distortion with a precision straightedge and feeler gauge; if worse than specified, distortion can be resurfaced in an automotive machine shop. Obviously, if to rebore is unnecessary and if the cylinders are in reasonable order, albeit worn to some extent, and if the necessary piston to cylinder clearance can be maintained, honing will suffice.

Using a gasket scraper, remove all traces of gasket material from the engine block, taking care not to nick or gouge the gasket sealing surfaces.

Protect the fenders and cowl, then remove the hood. Note that on certain models, the hood can be propped open instead of being removed.

Before beginning engine reassembly, ensure you have all necessary new parts, gaskets, and seals, along with common hand tools, a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench, a piston ring installation tool, a piston ring compressor, short lengths of rubber or plastic hose to fit over connecting rod bolts, plastigage, feeler gauges, a fine-tooth file, new engine oil, engine assembly lube or moly-base grease, gasket sealer, and thread locking compound.

The specific order is: cylinder head/valve cover(s), intake and exhaust manifolds, timing belt covers, timing belt and sprockets, cylinder head(s), oil pan, oil pump, piston/connecting rod assemblies, crankshaft rear oil seal retainer, crankshaft, and main bearings.

Careful assembly in a clean environment is vital for ensuring the longevity and reliability of the rebuilt engine.

Several preliminary steps should be taken, including locating a suitable place to work, cleaning the engine compartment, ensuring the right equipment is available, and planning the operation ahead of time.

It is advisable to consider which rebuilding alternative suits your needs best and to consult with local automotive machine shops, auto parts dealers, and experienced rebuilders before making any purchases.